For a glimpse of Kanazawa in its Edo Period pomp, head to the Higashi Chaya district in the north of the city. Having escaped bombing during the Second World War, this is one of the best-preserved neighbourhoods anywhere in Japan and today it’s home to traditional shops and museums, as well as authentic geisha performances. The largest teahouse in the area is Kaikaro, one of Kanazawa’s most important cultural relics. Inside you can try your hand at calligraphy, learn more about the tea ceremony and, if you’re very lucky and have an invite, experience a full geisha ceremony.